Best Time to Plant Hedges in the UK

The Three Ways Hedges Are Sold

Before you can decide when to plant, you need to know what you are buying. Hedges are sold in three forms, each with different planting windows and different prices.

Bare root

Bare root plants are dug from the field in winter when dormant, with the soil shaken off the roots. They are the cheapest option, typically half the price of pot grown plants, and they establish quickly because the roots spread into the surrounding soil rather than staying in a pot-shaped ball. The downside is the narrow planting window: November to March only. Once they start into growth in spring they cannot be moved.

Bare root is the best choice for deciduous hedges like beech, hornbeam, hawthorn, blackthorn and dogwood. Yew is also sold bare root and establishes well. Most native mixed hedges are planted bare root.

Root ball

Root balled plants are field grown but dug up with a ball of soil around the roots, wrapped in hessian. They are used for larger evergreens like cherry laurel, portugal laurel, holm oak and large yew. The soil ball protects the roots, so they transplant more reliably than bare root evergreens.

Planting window is October to March. Root ball plants are more expensive than bare root but cheaper than equivalent pot grown stock. They are a good halfway house when you want a mature evergreen hedge quickly.

Pot grown

Pot grown plants spend their whole life in containers. They can be planted at any time of year because the root system is intact. This makes them the most flexible option but also the most expensive. A pot grown yew can cost twice as much as a bare root yew of the same size.

Pot grown is the right choice when you miss the winter window, when you want to plant in summer (with regular watering), or when you want instant impact from larger specimen plants. For long hedges, pot grown gets expensive fast.

Planting Windows by Season

Autumn (October and November)

Autumn is the ideal planting season for almost all hedges. The soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth, but the air is cool so the tops do not lose water fast. Rainfall is increasing so you do not need to water as much. Bare root plants become available from mid November.

The only downside of autumn planting is that the ground can be dry in some years, especially on light chalky soils. If the soil is dry at planting time, water thoroughly once after planting and then leave the hedge to winter rains.

Winter (December to February)

Winter planting works well as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Frozen soil is impossible to dig properly and roots cannot grow into it. Waterlogged soil compacts when dug, destroying the structure and suffocating roots.

If you buy bare root plants and the ground is frozen when they arrive, heel them in. Dig a shallow trench in a sheltered spot, lay the plants in at an angle, and cover the roots with soil. They will keep for weeks like this.

Spring (March and April)

Spring is the second best planting window. The soil is warming up, roots are starting into growth, and the plants have the whole growing season ahead to establish. March is the last month for bare root planting.

The risk with spring planting is that the hedge has not had time to root out before the dry summer months. You will need to water through the first summer more carefully than for autumn planted stock.

Summer (May to September)

Only pot grown plants can be planted in summer, and only if you commit to watering. A newly planted hedge in June will need a thorough soak once a week for the whole summer, more in hot dry spells. Planting in summer is more about necessity than choice: if you have just moved house and want a hedge before the children start school, summer planting is possible but not ideal.

Choosing the Right Species

The right hedge species depends on your soil, your site and what you want the hedge to do. See our guide to cutting hedges for maintenance once they are established, and our yew plant profile for details on the king of formal hedges.

On chalky Chiltern soil

Beech, yew, hornbeam, hawthorn, box, privet and lavender all thrive on chalk. Avoid rhododendron and camellia hedges, which need acid soil. See our article on low-maintenance plants for Chiltern gardens for more suggestions.

On heavy clay

Hornbeam is the best deciduous hedge for clay. Yew copes if the drainage is reasonable. Hawthorn and blackthorn are native and tolerant. Avoid beech on wet clay because it rots at the roots. See our guide to improving clay soil before planting.

For exposed sites

Hawthorn, blackthorn, dogwood and field maple are the toughest native hedge plants and will cope with wind and exposure. They are the choice for exposed gardens on the tops of the Chilterns.

For shade

Yew is the only conifer that copes with shade. Holly, hornbeam and beech all tolerate partial shade. See our guide to plants for shade gardens for more options.

Preparing the Ground

Hedge preparation is the unglamorous part that determines whether your hedge thrives or struggles. A hedge is a long row of hungry, thirsty plants competing with each other. Get the soil right and they will romp away.

Clear the strip

Mark out a strip about 60cm wide where the hedge will go. Spray off any existing grass and weeds with glyphosate two weeks before planting, or dig the turf off and stack it upside down to compost. Do not leave grass in place because it will compete with the young hedge for water and nutrients.

Dig over and improve the soil

Dig the strip to a spade depth, breaking up any compaction. Incorporate plenty of organic matter: garden compost, well rotted manure or soil improver. On heavy clay, add horticultural grit as well. On sandy or chalky soil, the organic matter is even more important because it holds water.

This is also the time to remove large stones, perennial weed roots and any old building rubble. A hedge planted into rubble will never thrive.

Spacing

Spacing depends on the species and the size of plants. As a rule of thumb for a single row hedge using 60 to 80cm tall bare root plants:

• Beech and hornbeam: 3 to 4 plants per metre
• Hawthorn and native mix: 5 to 6 plants per metre
• Yew: 2 to 3 plants per metre
• Privet: 4 to 5 plants per metre
• Leylandii: 2 plants per metre
• Laurel: 2 to 3 plants per metre

For a thicker stock proof hedge, plant a double staggered row 40cm apart, with 30cm between rows. This is traditional for native hawthorn hedges and gives a denser result.

Planting Technique Step by Step

The planting cut

Dig a slot or hole wide enough to take the roots spread out. For bare root plants, a slot dug with a spade to one spit depth and a trowel width is enough. For pot grown and root ball plants, dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and the same depth.

Planting depth

Plant at the same depth the plant was growing before. You can see the soil mark on the stem of bare root plants. Planting too deep suffocates the roots. Planting too shallow leaves them exposed.

Backfilling and firming

Hold the plant at the right depth and trickle soil around the roots, shaking the plant gently to settle the soil between the roots. Firm with the heel of your boot, but do not stamp so hard that you compact the soil. Water thoroughly after planting even if rain is forecast.

Support

Bare root plants in exposed sites may need a stake for the first year. Most hedge plants do not need staking because they are small and flexible. If rabbits or deer are present, install a spiral guard or plastic tube around each plant immediately. One night of rabbit attention can destroy a newly planted hedge.

Aftercare in the First Two Years

Watering

The single most important aftercare job is watering. A newly planted hedge needs about 10 litres per metre per week from April to September for the first two years. In hot dry spells, water twice a week. A length of porous pipe laid along the hedge row makes this much easier.

Do not rely on a quick spray with the hose. A proper soak that wets the root zone is what the plants need. Water in the evening or early morning to reduce evaporation.

Mulching

A 5cm layer of bark or compost mulch along the hedge row suppresses weeds and retains moisture. Mulch right after planting and top up each spring. Keep the mulch a few centimetres away from the stems to prevent rotting.

Mulch is more effective than weed fabric for hedges because it improves the soil as it breaks down. See our guide to preventing weeds in garden beds for more on mulching.

Feeding

In the second spring after planting, give the hedge a feed with a balanced fertiliser like growmore or blood, fish and bone. Apply about 50g per square metre and water in. Do not feed in the first year because the roots are not established enough to use it.

Pruning

Cut newly planted bare root deciduous hedges back by a third at planting time. This seems brutal but it forces the plants to bush out from the base, giving a denser hedge. Evergreens like yew should not be cut back at planting; instead, give them a light trim in the first summer to shape them.

In the second winter, cut the hedge back by another third. This will delay the hedge reaching its final height by a year, but it will be much denser as a result. See our hedge cutting service for what is involved in keeping a mature hedge in shape.

What Does It Cost to Plant a Hedge?

The cost of planting a hedge is mostly the cost of the plants plus some ground preparation. For a 10 metre hedge using bare root plants, expect to pay:

• Beech or hornbeam, 60cm bare root: 60 to 120 pounds for plants
• Native mix, 60cm bare root: 40 to 80 pounds for plants
• Yew, 60cm pot grown: 200 to 400 pounds for plants
• Laurel, 60cm root ball: 150 to 250 pounds for plants

Add 150 to 400 pounds for ground preparation and planting labour if you are paying a gardener. The RHS has useful guidance on planting hedges if you want to do it yourself.

Common Mistakes

Planting too close together

More plants per metre is not always better. Overcrowded hedges compete for water and nutrients and never reach their full size. Stick to the spacing guidance for your species.

Not watering in the first summer

This is the number one reason newly planted hedges fail. Even a few days of dry soil in June can kill a young plant. Water weekly from April to September for two years.

Letting weeds grow at the base

Grass and weeds at the base of a young hedge steal water and nutrients. Keep a 60cm wide strip clear of weeds for the first two years, either by mulching or by careful hoeing.

Not cutting back bare root plants

If you do not cut back bare root deciduous plants at planting time, they grow into single stems with bare bottoms. Cutting back forces bushy growth from the base.

Planting in summer without watering

Pot grown plants can be planted in summer but only if you commit to watering. Planting in June and going on holiday for two weeks in July is a recipe for a dead hedge.

Final Thoughts

Planting a hedge is an investment that pays back for decades. A well planted beech or yew hedge will outlive the person who planted it. Getting the timing right, the soil preparation right, and the aftercare right in the first two years is what makes the difference between a hedge that romps away and one that limps along for years.

If you are planning a hedge, the best first step is to talk through your site and your needs with someone who has planted a few. We are happy to advise on species choice, spacing and timing, and we can plant the hedge for you if you prefer.

Hedge planting service

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant a hedge in January?

Yes, as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. January is a good month for bare root planting. If the ground is frozen, heel the plants in somewhere sheltered and wait for a mild spell.

How far apart should I plant a beech hedge?

For a single row, plant 3 to 4 bare root plants per metre. For a double staggered row, plant 5 to 6 per metre. The closer spacing gives a denser hedge sooner but costs more in plants.

Do I need to water a hedge planted in November?

Only if the winter is unusually dry. November planted hedges usually establish on winter rainfall. Start regular watering in April if the spring is dry.

How long until a newly planted hedge gives privacy?

A bare root beech hedge planted at 60cm tall takes 4 to 6 years to reach 1.5 metres. Yew takes 5 to 8 years. For instant privacy, plant larger pot grown stock, but expect to pay 5 to 10 times more per metre.

Further Reading

• When should hedges be cut in the UK?
• Low-maintenance plants for Chiltern gardens
• How to prevent weeds in garden beds long term
• Our hedge cutting service

Sources and citations

This article draws on the following sources. Specific claims are cited inline where relevant.

1. CGM field records (2025-06. Site observations from gardens across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Bedfordshire.
2. Royal Horticultural Society (2024). RHS Gardening Advice and Plant Finder. Available at rhs.org.uk.
3. Met Office (2024). Regional climate averages, South East England. Available at metoffice.gov.uk.
4. British Geological Survey (2024). Soil parent material data for the Chilterns and Thames Valley. Available at bgs.ac.uk.