Choosing the Right Compost Bin for Your Garden

Why Compost

About 30 percent of the average UK household bin is food waste, and a similar proportion of garden waste is compostable. Sending this to landfill is a waste of a resource and contributes to methane emissions, as organic waste decomposes anaerobically in landfill. Composting at home turns this waste into a valuable soil improver for free.

Home made compost is the best mulch and soil improver you can get. It is full of soil life, slowly releases nutrients to the plants, improves soil structure, and retains moisture. A garden that composts for a few years will have dramatically better soil than one that relies on chemical fertilisers.

Types of Compost Bin

Plastic compost bin

The standard plastic compost bin is the most popular type in the UK. It is a black or dark green plastic cone or square, usually 200 to 400 litres, with a lid on top and a hatch at the base for removing finished compost. The plastic is recycled and UV stabilised.

Advantages: cheap, easy to assemble, rodent resistant if sited correctly, available in many sizes. Disadvantages: not the most attractive, can be hard to turn the compost, slower than insulated bins in winter.

Cost: 30 to 80 pounds for a 200 to 400 litre bin. Many local councils in the UK offer subsidised bins at 15 to 30 pounds, so check with your council before buying.

Wooden compost bin

Wooden bins are made from slatted timber, usually pressure treated, in a square or rectangular shape. They look better than plastic bins, blend into the garden, and allow better air circulation through the slats. They can be bought as kits or made from reclaimed timber.

Advantages: attractive, good air circulation, modular so you can add bays for turning. Disadvantages: more expensive, the wood rots eventually, more exposed to rodents unless lined.

Cost: 50 to 200 pounds for a single bay kit. A three bay system for turning compost costs 150 to 400 pounds.

Compost tumbler

A compost tumbler is a drum mounted on a frame that you turn with a handle. The idea is that turning the drum mixes and aerates the compost, speeding up decomposition. Tumblers come in various sizes from 100 to 600 litres.

Advantages: easy to turn, fast compost in ideal conditions, contained so no rodent issues, no heavy lifting. Disadvantages: expensive, small capacity for the price, can be hard to turn when full, can become waterlogged if not managed.

Cost: 100 to 400 pounds. Best for smaller gardens or keen composters who want fast results.

Hot bin

A hot bin is an insulated compost bin that maintains high internal temperatures, allowing you to compost cooked food, meat, dairy, and bones as well as garden waste. The insulation means the compost gets to 40 to 60 Celsius, killing weed seeds and pathogens.

Advantages: composts all food waste including cooked food and meat, fast compost in 30 to 90 days, kills weed seeds, no rats or flies if managed correctly. Disadvantages: expensive, needs regular feeding to maintain temperature, needs a power source for some models, requires more attention than a basic bin.

Cost: 200 to 600 pounds. Best for keen composters who want to compost all food waste, or for households that produce a lot of cooked food waste.

Green cone

A green cone is a solar powered food waste digester rather than a composter. It is a sealed underground basket with a black cone above ground that absorbs heat. You put all food waste, including meat and dairy, into the cone, where it decomposes and the liquid seeps into the surrounding soil.

Advantages: composts all food waste, no finished compost to remove, very low maintenance, no rodent issues if installed correctly. Disadvantages: needs a sunny spot with good drainage, does not produce compost you can use, slow in winter.

Cost: 80 to 150 pounds. Best for households that want to dispose of food waste but do not need the compost.

Compost heap

The traditional compost heap is simply a pile of organic material in a corner of the garden, optionally contained by wooden boards or wire mesh. It is free, can be any size, and is the best option if you have a lot of garden waste and plenty of space.

Advantages: free, any size, can handle large amounts of material. Disadvantages: slow, exposed to weather and rodents, looks untidy, hard to turn, weed seeds survive.

Cost: free if you have the space. Best for large gardens with a hidden corner.

Wormery

A wormery uses special composting worms to break down kitchen waste, producing a small amount of high quality compost and a liquid fertiliser. Wormeries are small and can be kept on a balcony or in a garage.

Advantages: small, can compost kitchen waste only, produces concentrated liquid fertiliser, can be kept indoors or in a shed. Disadvantages: small capacity, worms are sensitive to temperature, can fail if not managed, needs regular feeding.

Cost: 60 to 150 pounds. Best for small households with no garden waste, or as a supplement to a main bin.

Compost Bin Comparison

Siting Your Compost Bin

Where you put your compost bin matters more than you might think. The right site speeds up decomposition, reduces smells and pests, and makes the bin easier to use.

On bare soil

Site the bin on bare soil rather than paving or concrete. This allows worms and other soil organisms to move up into the compost, and allows excess liquid to drain away. If you must site on paving, put a layer of soil at the bottom of the bin to introduce the worms.

Partly shaded

A partly shaded spot is ideal. Full sun dries the compost out, while full shade keeps it too cold in winter. A spot that gets morning sun but is shaded in the heat of the day is perfect.

Convenient

Put the bin close enough to the kitchen that you will use it. A bin at the far end of the garden means a long walk in the rain, and you will give up. A bin 10 paces from the kitchen door is ideal.

Out of sight if possible

A compost bin is functional rather than beautiful. Site it behind a shed, in a corner, or screened by a hedge if you can. Do not put it right next to the patio where you sit.

Away from rat runs

If you have rats in the area, site the bin away from their runs, which are usually along boundaries and under hedges. A bin in the open is less attractive to rats than one tucked against a fence.

What to Compost

Good compost needs a mix of greens, which are high in nitrogen, and browns, which are high in carbon. The ideal ratio is roughly half and half by volume, though you do not need to be precise.

Greens (high nitrogen)

• Fruit and vegetable peelings
• Tea bags and coffee grounds
• Grass clippings
• Raw green garden waste (cut flowers, deadheaded flowers)
• Young weeds that have not gone to seed
• Poultry manure and pigeon manure

Browns (high carbon)

• Autumn leaves
• Shredded paper and cardboard (no glossy paper)
• Twiggy prunings, shredded or chopped
• Straw and hay
• Sawdust and wood shavings (in small amounts)
• Egg shells (technically mineral but useful for structure)

What NOT to compost in a basic bin

• Cooked food of any kind
• Meat, fish, and bones
• Dairy products
• Grease and oil
• Diseased plant material
• Perennial weeds such as bindweed and couch grass roots
• Weeds that have gone to seed
• Cat and dog faeces
• Glossy paper and cardboard
• Coal ash (wood ash is fine in small amounts)

Cooked food, meat, and dairy can be composted in a hot bin or green cone, but not in a basic bin. They attract rats and flies and create smells.

Composting in Practice

Chop material up

The smaller the material, the faster it composts. Chop fruit and vegetable waste, tear up cardboard, and shred twiggy prunings. A few minutes with a knife or shredder can halve the composting time.

Mix greens and browns

Add a mix of greens and browns each time you fill the bin. A layer of grass clippings followed by a layer of cardboard is ideal. Too much green makes a slimy, smelly mess. Too much brown makes a dry, slow heap.

Keep it moist

The compost should be as damp as a wrung out sponge. If it is too dry, add water or more greens. If it is too wet, add cardboard, paper, or autumn leaves to absorb the moisture.

Keep it aerated

Compost needs air to decompose properly. Turn the heap every 6 to 8 weeks with a fork, mixing the outside into the middle. If you cannot turn it, push a garden fork into the heap and wiggle it to create air channels.

Be patient

Compost takes 6 to 18 months in a basic bin, depending on the weather and how well you manage it. You cannot rush it. The compost at the bottom of the bin will be ready first, while the top is still fresh.

Common Compost Problems

Smelly slime

Cause: too much green material, particularly grass clippings, and not enough air. Fix: turn the heap and mix in cardboard, paper, or autumn leaves. Avoid adding thick layers of grass clippings.

Dry heap that is not composting

Cause: too much brown material, not enough moisture. Fix: add water and green material. Cover the heap to retain moisture.

Rats

Cause: cooked food, meat, or excessive grain in the bin. Fix: stop adding cooked food. Site the bin on bare soil away from rat runs. Consider a closed bin such as a tumbler or hot bin.

Flies

Cause: fruit waste exposed on the surface. Fix: cover fresh fruit waste with a layer of cardboard, paper, or soil. The flies are harmless but annoying.

Slow compost

Cause: cold weather, large pieces, dry heap, or insufficient green material. Fix: chop material smaller, add greens, cover the heap to retain heat, and be patient.

Using Your Compost

Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells of woodland soil. It should have no recognisable pieces of the original material except the occasional twig or eggshell.

Use compost as a mulch around plants, dug into vegetable beds before sowing, mixed with soil in potting compost, or as a top dressing for lawns. A 5cm layer as a mulch suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and feeds the soil. See our guide to mulching for more detail.

Compost that is not quite finished, with some recognisable pieces, can be used as a mulch around established shrubs where the appearance does not matter. It will finish composting in place.

Council Subsidised Bins

Most local councils in the UK offer subsidised compost bins to residents, often at half the retail price or less. Check your council website for details. The bins on offer are usually the standard 220 or 330 litre plastic bins, suitable for most gardens.

Some councils also offer subsidised hot bins, green cones, and water butts. The discounts can be substantial, so always check before buying at retail. See the RHS guidance on compost bins for more detail on choosing and using a bin.

Making Your Own Bin

If you are handy with a saw, you can make a wooden compost bin from reclaimed timber. Pallets are ideal and often free from local businesses. Stand four pallets on their edges, screw them together at the corners, and line the inside with cardboard to keep the compost in. Total cost: a few pounds for screws and a morning's work.

A two or three bay pallet bin system is the cheapest way to compost large amounts of material. Fill one bay while the other is maturing, then turn the compost from one to the other. See our guide to restoring an overgrown garden for related clearance tips.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big a compost bin do I need?

For a typical household with a small to medium garden, a 200 to 400 litre bin is sufficient. For a larger garden producing a lot of waste, two or three bins or a single 600 litre bin is better. As a rough guide, allow 100 litres of bin capacity per person in the household.

Can I put cooked food in a compost bin?

Not in a basic compost bin. Cooked food, meat, and dairy attract rats and flies and create smells. Use a hot bin or green cone for these. A basic bin is only for raw fruit and vegetable waste, garden waste, and paper or cardboard.

How long does compost take?

Six to 18 months in a basic plastic bin, three to six months in a well managed tumbler, and 30 to 90 days in a hot bin. The speed depends on the weather, the mix of materials, and how often you turn it. Be patient: finished compost will arrive.

Why does my compost bin smell?

Usually because it has too much green material, particularly grass clippings, and not enough air. Turn the heap and mix in cardboard, paper, or autumn leaves. Avoid adding thick layers of grass clippings. A well managed bin smells of woodland soil, not rotting waste.

Can I compost weeds?

Annual weeds that have not gone to seed are fine. Perennial weeds such as bindweed, couch grass and ground elder should not be composted, as they will regrow from fragments. Drown them in water for 6 weeks first, or burn them.

Final Thoughts

A compost bin is one of the best investments a UK gardener can make. It turns waste into a valuable soil improver, reduces landfill, and saves money. The right bin depends on your garden size, your waste type, and your budget, but for most gardens a simple plastic bin is the best starting point. Start with that, learn the practice, and upgrade later if you need to.

If you would like help setting up a compost area, building a wooden bin system, or improving your soil with compost, get in touch with our team. We work across the Chilterns and can advise on the best setup for your garden.

Further Reading

• Low maintenance plants for the Chilterns
• Garden clearance cost guide
• Garden maintenance service
• How to restore an overgrown garden

Sources and citations

This article draws on the following sources. Specific claims are cited inline where relevant.

1. CGM field records (2025-08. Site observations from gardens across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Bedfordshire.
2. Royal Horticultural Society (2024). RHS Gardening Advice and Plant Finder. Available at rhs.org.uk.
3. Met Office (2024). Regional climate averages, South East England. Available at metoffice.gov.uk.
4. British Geological Survey (2024). Soil parent material data for the Chilterns and Thames Valley. Available at bgs.ac.uk.