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Published

28 May 2026 · 8 min read

Last reviewed

19 July 2026

Reviewed by a senior CGM team member.

The short answer

Quick Answer

The best lawn care plan for large gardens in the Chilterns: mow weekly at 25 to 40mm from March to October, scarify and aerate annually in September, overseed bare patches in spring or autumn, feed in spring and autumn, treat moss annually, and water deeply in dry spells. A 500 sqm lawn costs 800 to 1,500 pounds per year to maintain professionally. On chalky Chiltern soils, the lawn needs extra watering and moss treatment.

Why Large Lawns Need a Plan

A large lawn is the most visible element of a large garden. An immaculate lawn makes the whole garden look cared for. A neglected lawn makes the whole garden look untidy. But a large lawn is also expensive to maintain, and without a plan, the cost can spiral.

In the Chilterns, large lawns range from 200 to 2,000 sqm. The chalky soils around High Wycombe, Amersham and Wendover dry out fast, so the lawn needs extra watering in summer. The clay soils in Aylesbury and Bicester hold water better, but are prone to moss and compaction. This guide gives a lawn care plan tailored to large gardens in the Chilterns.

The Annual Lawn Care Calendar

MonthJob
JanuaryAvoid walking on frosty lawns. Plan the year.
FebruaryApply moss treatment if needed. Service the mower.
MarchFirst cut with blades high (40-50mm). Edge the lawn.
AprilWeekly mowing begins. Apply spring feed. Aerate if not done in autumn.
MayWeekly mowing at 30-40mm. Treat weeds with a spot weedkiller.
JuneWeekly mowing at 25-30mm. Water in dry spells.
JulyWeekly mowing at 25-30mm. Water deeply once a week.
AugustWeekly mowing. Water in dry spells. Treat for leatherjackets if needed.
SeptemberScarify, aerate, top dress, overseed. Apply autumn feed.
OctoberLast cut of the year at 40-50mm. Clear leaves.
NovemberClear leaves. Avoid walking on wet soil.
DecemberAvoid walking on frosty lawns. Plan the year.

Mowing

Mowing is the most important (and most frequent) lawn job. Get it right and the lawn will thrive. Get it wrong and the lawn will struggle.

  • Frequency: weekly from March to October, fortnightly in November and December if mild
  • Height: 25 to 30mm in summer, 40 to 50mm in spring and autumn
  • Pattern: vary the direction each cut to prevent soil compaction
  • Clippings: leave on the lawn in dry spells to retain moisture, collect in wet spells to prevent thatch
  • Edging: edge along paths and borders with a half-moon edger every 4 to 6 weeks

For large lawns (over 500 sqm), use a ride-on mower. It is 5 to 10 times faster than a walk-behind mower.

Scarification

Scarification removes thatch (dead grass and moss) from the lawn. Thatch prevents water and air reaching the roots. Scarify annually in September.

  • When: September, when the grass is actively growing
  • How: use a powered scarifier, set to cut 5 to 10mm into the soil
  • Result: the lawn will look bare and thin for 2 to 3 weeks, then recover with overseeding

Cost: 2 to 4 pounds per square metre if we do it, or hire a scarifier for 50 pounds per day. See our scarification guide.

Aeration

Aeration relieves compaction and improves drainage. Aerate annually in September.

  • When: September, with or after scarification
  • How: use a hollow-tine or solid-tine aerator, 10cm deep every 10cm
  • Top dressing: brush a 70/30 sand and soil mix into the holes

Cost: 2 to 4 pounds per square metre if we do it. See our aeration guide.

Overseeding

Overseeding thickens the lawn and introduces new grass varieties. Overseed after scarification and aeration.

  • When: September (best) or March
  • Seed rate: 25g per square metre
  • Seed choice: shade-tolerant mix for shaded lawns, hard-wearing mix for family lawns, drought-tolerant mix for chalky soils
  • Aftercare: water daily for 3 weeks, keep off for 2 weeks, do not mow until new grass is 7 to 8cm tall

Feeding

Feed the lawn twice a year: spring (March to April) and autumn (September to October).

  • Spring feed: high nitrogen to promote growth. Apply at 30g per square metre.
  • Autumn feed: low nitrogen, high potash to promote root growth. Apply at 30g per square metre.
  • On chalky soils: choose a feed with iron for moss control

Moss Treatment

Moss is a common problem on Chiltern lawns, especially on clay soils and in shaded areas. Treat annually with iron sulphate in February or March.

  • Application: 5g per square metre, mixed with water
  • Result: moss turns black within 2 weeks, ready for scarification
  • Prevention: improve drainage, reduce shade, aerate annually

See our moss guide.

Watering

Water the lawn in dry spells to keep it green. On chalky Chiltern soils, the lawn can go brown within 2 weeks of dry weather.

  • When: when the soil is dry to 5cm deep
  • How much: 25mm per week (about 2.5 litres per square metre)
  • How often: once a week, deeply. Avoid frequent light watering.
  • Time of day: early morning (5 to 8am) to reduce evaporation

If you cannot water, let the lawn go dormant. It will recover when the rain returns.

The Cost of Large Lawn Care

Lawn sizeAnnual cost (professional)
200 sqm400-800 pounds
500 sqm800-1,500 pounds
1,000 sqm1,500-3,000 pounds
2,000 sqm3,000-6,000 pounds

This includes weekly mowing, annual scarification and aeration, feeding, and moss treatment. See our lawn recovery service and lawn calculator.

Common Mistakes

  • Cutting too short. Short grass is vulnerable to drought, moss and weeds. Keep blades at 25 to 40mm.
  • Not scarifying. Thatch builds up and the lawn declines. Scarify annually.
  • Not aerating. Compacted lawns get mossy and weedy. Aerate annually.
  • Over-feeding. Too much fertiliser produces soft growth vulnerable to drought and disease.
  • Not treating moss. Moss spreads fast if not treated. Apply iron sulphate annually.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I mow a large lawn?

Weekly from March to October. Use a ride-on mower for lawns over 500 sqm.

When should I scarify and aerate?

September, when the grass is actively growing. The lawn will recover in 3 to 4 weeks with overseeding.

Should I water my lawn in a drought?

Only if you can commit to weekly watering. Sporadic watering does more harm than good. Letting the lawn go dormant is fine.

Get Help with Large Lawn Care

If you have a large lawn in Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire or Bedfordshire and want help with maintenance, send us a WhatsApp with photos and we will aim to respond within 12 to 36 hours, Monday to Sunday.

Further Reading

Estate Note

On mature lawns, check for leatherjackets and chafer grubs before scarifying. Established turf recovers more slowly than newly seeded areas, so adjust the renovation intensity accordingly.

Useful next steps

Put this advice into practice

Use the relevant CGM tool or follow a related guide, then send us a few photos if you would like a tailored plan.

Open the lawn recovery toolOpen guide Why is my lawn full of moss?Open guide Aeration, overseeding and top dressing explainedOpen guide
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Sources and citations

This article draws on the following sources. Specific claims are cited inline where relevant.

  1. CGM field records (2026-07. Site observations from gardens across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Bedfordshire.
  2. Royal Horticultural Society (2024). RHS Gardening Advice and Plant Finder. Available at rhs.org.uk.
  3. Met Office (2024). Regional climate averages, South East England. Available at metoffice.gov.uk.
  4. British Geological Survey (2024). Soil parent material data for the Chilterns and Thames Valley. Available at bgs.ac.uk.