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Quick Answer
The best time to plant trees and shrubs in the UK is between November and March, when the plants are dormant. Bare root plants must be planted in this window. Container grown plants can be planted at any time of year, but planting in autumn or early spring gives the best results. Avoid planting in summer unless you can water reliably for the first season.
If you only remember one rule, plant deciduous trees and shrubs in late autumn or early winter, when the soil is still warm from summer but the plant is dormant.
Bare Root Versus Container Grown
The timing of planting depends mostly on whether the plant is bare root or container grown. These are two different ways of buying and planting, with different windows.
Bare root plants
Bare root plants are dug from the field in autumn when they lose their leaves, and sold with no soil around the roots. They are cheaper, often half the price of container grown plants, and they establish quickly because the roots adapt to the new soil from day one. Bare root plants are only available from November to March, when the plant is dormant.
The downside is that the roots must not dry out. Bare root plants should be planted within a few days of delivery, or heeled into a corner of the garden until you are ready. If the roots dry out, the plant will fail.
Container grown plants
Container grown plants are sold in pots with their rootball intact. They can be planted at any time of year, but establishment is best in autumn and spring when the soil is moist and the temperatures are mild. Container plants are more expensive than bare root, but they are the only option for evergreen specimens and for planting outside the dormant season.
Container plants have a higher failure rate if planted in summer because the leaves are transpiring moisture faster than the roots can take it up. If you must plant in summer, water every few days for the first season.
Rootball Versus Bare Root
Rootballed plants are field grown, dug up with a ball of soil around the roots, and wrapped in hessian. They combine the value of bare root with the flexibility of container grown for larger specimens. Rootballs are mainly used for large evergreens such as yew and laurel, and are planted from October to April.
The Best Planting Windows
October to November: Ideal for most plants
Early to mid autumn is the best planting window for most trees and shrubs in the UK. The soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root growth, but the air has cooled enough that the plant is not losing moisture through its leaves. Bare root deciduous plants are just becoming available.
Planting in October gives the roots two or three months to establish before the really cold weather arrives. By spring, the plant is already settled in and can put its energy into top growth rather than root growth.
December to February: Dormant season planting
Mid winter is the heart of the bare root season. Plants are fully dormant and can be lifted, transported and planted with minimal stress. The main constraint is the weather. Avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Frozen soil is impossible to dig properly, and waterlogged soil compacts when you walk on it.
If you cannot plant immediately, heel bare root plants into a spare corner of the garden. Dig a shallow trench, lay the plants in at a 45 degree angle, cover the roots with soil, and firm in. They will keep for several weeks.
March to April: Late window for bare root
Early spring is the last chance to plant bare root specimens before they come into leaf. Once the buds start to break, the plant is no longer dormant and bare root planting is risky. Container grown plants can still be planted, but you will need to water through the first summer.
March is also a good month for planting evergreens, which prefer slightly warmer soil than deciduous plants. Wait until the worst of the winter is past before planting yew, holly, box, or laurel.
May to September: Container only, with watering
Summer planting is possible with container grown plants but not recommended for anything you cannot water reliably. The plant is in full leaf and losing moisture fast, while the roots are confined to the potting compost in the pot. Until the roots grow out into the surrounding soil, the plant is dependent on you for water.
For summer planting, water every 3 to 4 days for the first month, then weekly for the rest of the first summer. A thick mulch around the plant helps retain moisture.
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Species Specific Planting Times
Deciduous trees (oak, beech, birch, rowan, cherry)
Plant bare root from November to March, container grown at any time but ideally October to April. These are the easiest and most forgiving trees to plant.
Evergreen trees (yew, holly, pine, fir)
Plant container grown or rootballed from September to April. Avoid mid summer planting as evergreens continue to transpire through their leaves all year. Early autumn is ideal.
Fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, cherry)
Plant bare root from November to March, on a mild day when the soil is not frozen. Container grown fruit trees can be planted at any time but autumn is best. Avoid planting in frost pockets or in waterlogged soil.
Hedges (hawthorn, beech, yew, laurel, privet)
Plant bare root deciduous hedges from November to March. Plant container or rootballed evergreen hedges from September to April. For a long hedge, bare root is significantly cheaper. See our hedge cutting service for aftercare.
Roses
Plant bare root roses from November to March, container grown at any time but ideally autumn or early spring. Avoid planting in frosty weather. Our rose profile has more detail.
Soil Preparation Before Planting
The single biggest factor in whether a tree or shrub establishes is the soil preparation. A plant put into a small hole in compacted soil will struggle for years, no matter when you plant it.
Dig a planting hole twice the width of the rootball or the spread of the bare roots, and no deeper than the rootball. The top of the rootball should sit at the same level as the surrounding soil, or slightly proud in heavy clay. Planting too deep is a common cause of failure, especially with roses and fruit trees.
Break up the bottom and sides of the hole with a fork to allow roots to penetrate. Mix a couple of handfuls of well rotted compost or farmyard manure into the backfill soil. Do not add fresh manure or strong fertiliser to the planting hole as it can burn the roots.
On heavy clay soils, do not improve the backfill too much. If the planting hole is full of rich compost while the surrounding soil is solid clay, the roots will stay in the planting hole and the plant will never properly establish. Improve the wider soil over a few seasons with mulch.
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Planting Technique
Bare root planting
Soak bare root plants in a bucket of water for an hour before planting. Prune any broken or damaged roots with sharp secateurs. Place the plant in the hole and spread the roots out. Hold the plant at the correct depth, with the nursery soil mark level with the surrounding soil, and backfill with the improved soil. Firm gently with your foot as you go, and water in well to settle the soil around the roots.
Container grown planting
Water the plant thoroughly in its pot before planting. Remove the pot and tease out the roots if they are circling the pot. Plant at the same depth as in the pot, backfill, firm gently, and water in. Add a stake for trees taller than 1.2 metres.
Staking trees
Trees over 1.2 metres need a stake for the first year or two. Use a single stake driven in at a 45 degree angle, tied to the tree with a flexible tree tie. The stake should be low, around 60cm above ground, so the trunk can sway in the wind. This swaying encourages the trunk to thicken and the tree to develop a strong root system. Remove the stake after 18 months to 2 years.
The Mulch Circle
After planting, mulch around the base of the tree or shrub with a 5cm layer of bark or compost, in a circle 60cm wide. Keep the mulch clear of the trunk. This suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and protects the soil. Refresh annually for the first 3 years.
Aftercare for the First Season
The first season after planting is critical. The plant is establishing its root system and is vulnerable to drought. Water deeply once a week from spring to autumn for the first year, more often in dry spells. A deep weekly soak is better than a light daily sprinkle.
Keep a 60cm circle around the plant free of weeds and grass for the first 3 years. Grass is a fierce competitor for water and nutrients, and young trees and shrubs lose out. Mulch helps suppress weeds and reduces competition.
Prune only dead, damaged or diseased wood in the first year. Resist the urge to shape the plant until it is well established. For shrubs that need pruning to shape, see our guide to when to cut hedges for general timing principles.
Planting on Chilterns Chalk
The Chilterns are predominantly chalk, which is alkaline and shallow in places. This affects what you can plant and how. Acid loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias and pieris will not thrive on chalk without major soil amendment. Choose instead from plants that tolerate alkaline conditions: yew, box, holly, beech, hornbeam, lavender, rosemary and most roses.
On shallow chalk soils, dig a wider rather than deeper planting hole. The roots will spread sideways rather than down. Add organic matter to the backfill and mulch annually. See the RHS guidance on soil types for more on chalk soils.
Common Planting Mistakes
Planting too deep
The most common mistake. The top of the rootball should be level with the surrounding soil, never below it. Planting too deep causes the bark to rot at soil level and suffocates the roots.
Not teasing out container roots
If the roots have been circling the pot, they will keep circling in the ground. The plant never properly establishes and can blow over in a wind years later. Always tease out circling roots before planting, and cut any that are too thick to tease.
Skimping on the planting hole
A hole the same size as the pot is too small. Dig twice the width of the rootball, and break up the sides and bottom with a fork. The roots need loose soil to grow into.
Forgetting to water in the first summer
Even container grown plants planted in autumn need watering in their first summer. The roots have not yet spread out into the surrounding soil and the plant is dependent on you. Water weekly from May to September in the first year.
Planting Calendar Quick Reference
| Plant Type | Best Planting Time | Acceptable Time |
|---|---|---|
| Bare root deciduous | November to February | October, March |
| Container deciduous | October to November | December to April |
| Container evergreen | September to October | November to April |
| Rootballed evergreen | October to November | September, March to April |
| Bare root rose | November to February | October, March |
| Fruit tree (bare root) | November to March | October, April |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant a tree in summer?
You can, if it is container grown, but it is not ideal. Summer planted trees need watering every few days for the first season, and the failure rate is higher. If you must plant in summer, choose a cool overcast day, water thoroughly, and mulch heavily.
How late in spring can I plant bare root?
Up to about mid March in southern England, depending on the weather. Once the buds are breaking and the plant is coming into leaf, it is too late. Bare root plants in leaf rarely establish well.
Should I add fertiliser to the planting hole?
No, not directly. A couple of handfuls of well rotted compost mixed into the backfill is fine. Strong fertiliser in the planting hole can burn the new roots. Apply a general fertiliser as a top dressing in the second spring after planting.
How big should the planting hole be?
Twice the width of the rootball or the spread of the bare roots, and no deeper than the rootball. The plant should sit at the same depth as it was in the nursery, with the top of the rootball level with the surrounding soil.
Final Thoughts
Planting trees and shrubs at the right time, in a properly prepared hole, gives them the best chance of establishing quickly and thriving for decades. The work of digging the hole is more important than the work of planting the plant. A weekend spent on soil preparation in autumn will save years of struggling specimens.
If you are planning a larger planting project, such as a new hedge or a small orchard, get in touch with our team. We can advise on species choice for the Chilterns, supply plants at trade prices, and handle the planting.
Further Reading
- When to cut hedges in the UK
- Low maintenance plants for the Chilterns
- Yew plant profile
- Soft landscaping service
In mature and established gardens, always assess the existing ecosystem before making changes. Small adjustments to timing and technique can preserve decades of growth and wildlife value.
Put this advice into practice
Use the relevant CGM tool or follow a related guide, then send us a few photos if you would like a tailored plan.
Sources and citations
This article draws on the following sources. Specific claims are cited inline where relevant.
- CGM field records (2024-07. Site observations from gardens across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Bedfordshire.
- Royal Horticultural Society (2024). RHS Gardening Advice and Plant Finder. Available at rhs.org.uk.
- Met Office (2024). Regional climate averages, South East England. Available at metoffice.gov.uk.
- British Geological Survey (2024). Soil parent material data for the Chilterns and Thames Valley. Available at bgs.ac.uk.