On this page
Need help with this?
Contact us on WhatsApp, get a quote, or browse our Chiltern Guides for premium PDF instructions.
Quick Answer
The main autumn garden jobs are: clearing fallen leaves, planting spring bulbs, giving the lawn an autumn feed and aerating, lifting and protecting tender plants, planting bare root trees and hedges, clearing spent annuals, and mulching beds for winter. October is the busier month; November is for finishing and protecting.
Autumn priorities
1. Clear leaves from lawns and paths weekly.
2. Plant spring bulbs before the first frost.
3. Lift tender plants before they get hit.
4. Give the lawn its autumn feed and aerate.
5. Mulch beds while the soil is still warm.
October Jobs
Plant spring bulbs
October is the prime month for planting spring flowering bulbs. Daffodils, tulips, crocuses, alliums, hyacinths and fritillaries all go in now. The general rule is to plant bulbs at 2 to 3 times their own depth, with the pointed end up. Daffodils need to be in by mid October; tulips can wait until November.
For naturalising in grass, scatter bulbs and plant them where they land, using a bulb planter or a narrow spade. For formal beds, plant in clusters of 5 to 7 bulbs for impact rather than single rows. See our spring garden checklist for what to expect from bulbs planted now.
Clear leaves
Once leaves start falling, clear them weekly. Leaves left on lawns smother the grass and create dead patches. Leaves on paths become slippery and dangerous. Leaves in borders are fine in moderation because they act as a mulch, but heavy layers should be cleared.
Collect leaves into a leaf pen or black bin bags with holes punched in. Leave for 2 years to make leaf mould, an excellent soil improver and mulch. See our composting guide for more on leaf mould.
Lift tender plants
By mid October, tender plants like dahlias, cannas, gladioli and begonias need attention. In mild areas you may get away with leaving them in the ground with a thick mulch. In colder areas, lift the tubers or corms after the first frost has blackened the tops, dry them off, and store in a frost free shed in dry compost or vermiculite.
Tender shrubs in pots like pelargoniums, fuchsias and citrus should be moved under cover before the first frost. A frost free greenhouse or conservatory is ideal.
Give the lawn an autumn feed
An autumn lawn feed is different from a spring feed. It is higher in potassium and lower in nitrogen, which strengthens the roots and hardens the grass for winter rather than encouraging soft growth. Apply in early October when the soil is still warm and the grass is still growing.
After feeding, scarify to remove thatch and moss, and aerate with a fork or hollow tine aerator. Top dress with a mix of sand and loam if the lawn is on heavy soil. See our lawn recovery service for what is involved.
Plant bare root trees and hedges
Bare root plants become available from mid October. October and November are ideal planting months because the soil is still warm and the plants can root out before winter. See our guide to planting hedges for the full planting calendar and species recommendations.
Sow autumn vegetables
Sow broad beans, peas, winter lettuce, spinach and onions (from sets) in October for early crops next year. Cover with fleece or cloches in colder areas. Garlic is best planted in October or November because it needs a cold period to form bulbs.
Divide perennials
October is a good month for lifting and dividing overcrowded perennials. Dig up the clump, split it with two forks back to back or a sharp spade, and replant the healthiest divisions. Discard the woody centre. Water in well and mulch. See our guide to gardener visit frequency for fitting this into a maintenance schedule.
November Jobs
Finish planting tulips
November is the ideal month for planting tulips. Planting later reduces the risk of tulip fire, a fungal disease that thrives in warm wet soil. Plant tulips at 3 times their depth, 10 to 15cm apart in groups.
Plant bare root roses
Bare root roses are available from November. Plant at the same depth as they were in the field, with the graft union just below soil level. Water in well and prune lightly. See our rose profile for aftercare.
Protect tender plants
By November, all tender plants should be protected. Wrap outdoor bananas, tree ferns and palms in fleece and straw. Mulch around the base of dahlias left in the ground. Move potted tender plants under cover. See the RHS winter protection guide for detailed methods.
Cut back perennials
By November most perennials have died back and can be cut down. Cut to about 5cm above ground level. Leave some seed heads for the birds and for winter interest: teasels, echinacea, rudbeckia, sedum and ornamental grasses all look beautiful in frost.
Do not cut back evergreen perennials like heuchera, hellebores or epimedium. Just tidy any dead leaves. See our hellebore profile for winter care.
Mulch beds and borders
November is the ideal time to mulch. The soil is still warm from summer, so mulching now keeps the warmth in. A 5cm layer of compost, bark or well rotted manure suppresses winter weeds, protects roots from frost, and improves soil structure as it breaks down.
See our article on preventing weeds in garden beds for the practical details of mulching.
Clean and store tools
Clean, sharpen and oil tools before storing for winter. Service the mower, sharpen secateurs and shears, and treat wooden handles with linseed oil. See our winter garden checklist for more on winter tool care.
Clean greenhouse
Wash greenhouse glass inside and out. A layer of algae over winter reduces light by 20 percent, which matters when days are short. Tidy up, remove spent tomato and cucumber plants, and disinfect benches and pots.
Popular articles
Leaf Management
Why leaves matter
Autumn leaves are not a nuisance, they are a resource. Leaf mould is one of the best soil improvers you can make, and it is free. Every garden should have a system for collecting and storing leaves.
Making leaf mould
The simplest method is to fill black bin bags with wet leaves, punch a few holes for drainage, tie the top, and leave for 2 years. The result is a dark, crumbly, sweet smelling material that is excellent as a mulch, a soil improver, or a component of potting mixes.
For larger gardens, build a leaf pen from chicken wire and posts. Fill it in autumn and forget about it. After 2 years you have a ready supply of leaf mould.
Leaves on lawns
Leaves left on lawns for more than a few days smother the grass and create dead patches. Clear weekly with a rake or a leaf blower. A leaf blower is worth the investment for large gardens; for small gardens a spring tine rake is fine.
Leaves in ponds
Keep leaves out of ponds because they rot and deplete oxygen, harming fish and wildlife. Net the pond in autumn to catch falling leaves, and remove the net once the trees are bare.
Lawn Care in Autumn
Autumn feed
An autumn lawn feed strengthens roots and hardens the grass for winter. Apply in October when the soil is warm and the grass is still growing. Do not use spring feed in autumn because the nitrogen encourages soft growth that is damaged by frost.
Scarifying
Scarifying removes thatch and moss from the lawn. Use a spring tine rake or a powered scarifier. The lawn will look terrible afterwards but will recover over a few weeks. See our guide to mossy lawns for what to do with the moss you remove.
Aerating
Aerating relieves compaction and improves drainage. Use a garden fork to spike the lawn every 10cm, or hire a hollow tine aerator that removes cores of soil. Brush sharp sand into the holes on heavy clay soils to keep them open.
Top dressing
After scarifying and aerating, top dress with a mix of loam and sand. This improves the soil surface and fills in hollows. Spread about 1 to 2kg per square metre and work in with the back of a rake.
Repair bare patches
Autumn is a good time to repair bare patches in the lawn. Loosen the soil, sow grass seed at about 30g per square metre, and cover with a thin layer of compost. Keep moist until germination. See our lawn recovery service for full renovation.
Popular articles
Tender Plant Care
Dahlias
In mild areas, dahlias can be left in the ground with a 10cm mulch of bark or compost. In colder areas, lift the tubers after the first frost has blackened the tops. Cut back to 10cm, lift carefully, wash off the soil, dry upside down for a week, then store in trays of dry compost in a frost free shed.
Cannas and bananas
In mild areas, cut back the foliage and cover the crown with a thick layer of straw or bark, then fleece. In colder areas, lift the rhizomes and store like dahlias.
Pelargoniums and fuchsias
Potted plants should be moved to a frost free greenhouse or conservatory. Keep barely moist through winter. Hardy fuchsias in the ground can be left, with a mulch around the base.
Olive, citrus, and bay
Move potted specimens to a sheltered spot or unheated greenhouse. Wrap the pot in bubble wrap to protect the roots. In mild areas, outdoor plants can be protected with fleece in cold snaps.
Planting in Autumn
Bare root trees and hedges
Autumn is the best season for planting bare root trees, hedges and shrubs. The soil is still warm, the plants are dormant, and they have the whole winter to root out before spring. See our hedge planting guide for the full details.
Spring bulbs
October and November are the months for planting spring bulbs. Daffodils in October, tulips in November. Plant in clusters for impact and naturalise in grass for a wild look.
Bare root roses
Bare root roses are available from November. They are cheaper than pot grown and establish well in autumn soil. See our rose profile for planting and aftercare.
Winter bedding
Plant pansies, violas, wallflowers, primulas and cyclamen in containers and beds for winter colour. These plants are tough enough to flower through cold weather and will give colour from November to April.
Costs of Autumn Garden Work
- Autumn clearance visit: 80 to 200 pounds depending on garden size
- Lawn autumn feed and scarify: 100 to 250 pounds
- Leaf clearance per visit: 40 to 100 pounds
- Spring bulbs planted: 50 to 150 pounds for labour plus bulbs
- Mulching a 50 square metre bed: 100 to 250 pounds including materials
- Tender plant lifting and storing: 60 to 120 pounds
Most clients book an autumn clearance in October and a follow up in November to clear leaves and finish mulching. See our garden maintenance service for what we cover.
Common Autumn Mistakes
Leaving leaves on the lawn
A few weeks of leaf cover will kill the grass underneath. Clear weekly through autumn.
Planting tulips too early
Tulips planted in early October are more prone to tulip fire. Wait until November.
Not feeding the lawn in autumn
A spring feed is no substitute for an autumn feed. Autumn feed strengthens roots, spring feed encourages top growth.
Cutting everything back too early
Leave seed heads and standing stems for the birds and for winter interest. Cut back in February, not October.
Forgetting tender plants
One hard frost can kill a dahlia that has been thriving for years. Lift and protect before the first frost, not after.
Final Thoughts
Autumn is the season that defines the next year in the garden. Bulbs planted now give spring colour. Lawn work done now means a healthy lawn next summer. Mulch applied now protects soil and plants through winter. Tender plants lifted now survive to grow again next year.
The temptation in autumn is to wind down and let the garden go. Resist it. A few weeks of focused work in October and November pays back all year. See our summer tidy checklist for what to do before autumn arrives.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant tulips?
November is the ideal month. Planting later reduces the risk of tulip fire, a fungal disease. Plant at 3 times the bulb depth, 10 to 15cm apart.
Can I leave dahlias in the ground over winter?
In mild areas with well drained soil, yes, with a thick mulch. In cold or wet areas, lift them and store in a frost free shed. The risk of leaving them is rot in wet soil or death in a hard frost.
How often should I clear leaves?
Weekly through the main leaf fall in October and November. Less often in December as the leaves thin out.
Is it too late to plant in November?
No, November is a good month for planting bare root trees, hedges, roses and tulips. The soil is still workable and the plants will root out through winter.
Further Reading
- Winter garden tasks checklist
- Spring garden checklist
- Composting in the UK
- Best time to plant hedges
In mature gardens, timing is critical. Established plants respond differently to seasonal work than young plants. Watch the weather forecast and adjust plans accordingly.
Put this advice into practice
Use the relevant CGM tool or follow a related guide, then send us a few photos if you would like a tailored plan.
Sources and citations
This article draws on the following sources. Specific claims are cited inline where relevant.
- CGM field records (2025-01. Site observations from gardens across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Bedfordshire.
- Royal Horticultural Society (2024). RHS Gardening Advice and Plant Finder. Available at rhs.org.uk.
- Met Office (2024). Regional climate averages, South East England. Available at metoffice.gov.uk.
- British Geological Survey (2024). Soil parent material data for the Chilterns and Thames Valley. Available at bgs.ac.uk.